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Emerging Restaurant Row Along the Hudson Posits West Harlem as Culinary Destination

Posted June 4, 2014

A decade ago, 12th Avenue between 125th and 135th Streets was a dark, desolate, pot-holed road under the steel girders of the Riverside Drive Viaduct. Sure, there was Fairway, but no-one walked around up there, and there was nothing worth slowing down for – just meat packing warehouses and auto repair shops.

Today, though, the road has been lit, repaved, and reborn. There are now five restaurants along the ten-block stretch, with at least one more due to open soon. Together, these assorted venues have created a new nightlife scene of drinkers, diners and music seekers that often spills out onto the newly smooth sidewalks. All of them have well stocked bars and wide-ranging menus, some have live music, some river views and open space for outdoor dining. In summer, you can sit outside and catch a Hudson River breeze, or even order a picnic from the take out menus and carry it over to the West Harlem Piers, with their newly green lawns and spectacular views across the river.

Below, a round-up of the restaurants that have brought the Harlem waterfront to life.

Covo, West 135 St.

Italian born Tony Lebrutto is one of the neighborhood pioneers who took a leap of faith when he invested in a disused railway station just north of 135th Street. He knew that Columbia University's projected growth would one day transform the neighborhood, but in 2007, that was a long way off. Now, the time has come. Covo is a cheerful and popular indoor-and-outdoor space, catering to local families and sophisticated diners, with a large, airy upstairs lounge for private events.

The restaurant is lovely, with exposed pipes and beams and a beautiful tiled pizza oven specially imported from Verona, responsible for Covo's signature thin-crust pizzas. Other dishes include freshly made pasta, braised rabbit, and lobster risotto.

“The philosophy is just to use the best quality products, to make dishes from scratch, so people will spread the word and come back,” says manager Luca Valeriani. The philosophy seems to be working well. Covo is planning to open another restaurant on Broadway and 151st Street this coming September. Watch this space.

9A Kitchen and Lounge, 2331 Twelfth Avenue at 132nd St.

9A is the new kid on the block: a sports bar that combines a well-stocked bar with a 'fine dining ' area, offering a wide and varied menu that includes sushi, steak, and red velvet waffles. 9A opened last summer, and is frequently packed. “This is an enticing place,” explains manager Amparo Cruz, “because men can bring their lady friends to enjoy comfortable candlelight dining, while they can watch their games on the TVs above.” The venue, inconspicuously perched on the corner of 132nd St, is divided into two rooms, a sports bar and a dining room, and brightened by thoughtful touches such as patterned throw pillows and stylish, self-serve beer taps. The bar's windows open out to an outdoor seating area in the summer.

Dinosaur BBQ, 700 West 125th St and 12th Avenue

Around for a decade, Dinosaur is the grand-daddy of the waterfront restaurants, and has had a legendary rise from its humble beginnings in 1983 as a mobile concession stand serving bikers. Dinosaur arrived in Harlem in 2004, and attracts a large and varied crowd of diners. “We get such a cross section of people here, and that's what makes it fun,” says owner John Stage.

On weekends and holidays, people wait outside for seating, held in place by the wafting aroma of barbecued meat. As well as a sizzling selection of meat dishes, Dinosaur's southern-accented menu includes bronzed catfish, jerk salmon and mac and cheese.

Floridita 2276 Twelfth Avenue, at 125th Street

From the music to the travel posters on the walls, there is no mistaking this venue's ties with Cuba – a Cuba in its colorful, crazy heyday. La Floridita has been in Harlem since the 1960s, and has not changed its winning formula of simple, home-made and tasty Cuban dishes: chicken soup, mofongo (mashed plantains) and seven different flavors of flan. Prices are also refreshingly reasonable.

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Hudson River Cafe 697 W. 133rd St.

Graced with blue velvet, chandeliers and lovely river views, this busy venue hopes to take you through a long evening: from happy hour to dinner to late-night club and music spot. The restaurant has been here for seven years, but has recently been redesigned. HRC serves American food with a Latin flavor, (two of the signature dishes are a Dominican Oxtail locrio and grilled octopus) but its emphasis seems to be more on alcohol – with two for one retro cocktails, 'liquid brunch' and a lounge happy hour. Also on the menu: A DJ and live music from 4 to 8 every evening, as well as live jazz til late on weekends.

By The Hudson (BTH) Restaurant and Lounge is due to open soon.